Indian Hospitality Industry 1

Hotel Management in Default Settings

Today I have completed more than 35 years in the Indian Hospitality Industry. It was a humble beginning as Junior Executive Trainee in Akbar hotel on a stipend of Rs. 600 - I had just returned from Beirut, Lebanon. Gradually then, as a young lad, I was exposed to the Indian System of hotel environment, management, cuisines. I am very grateful that I grew up in the setting when great hoteliers’ like M. S. Oberoi, Ajit Kerkar and S.N. Gadhoke were trying to set standards in the hospitality Industry. Every time we served them breakfast, lunch or dinner we were trained to be precise on the timing, product contents, accompaniments, sauces and so on. Every time we served them, it was like a classroom lecture on Hospitality Standards, Environment, and Ambience and to learn how to hone the already known skills. Like our bosses, we were equally passionate about what we cooked, what we served and how we served.

Since then lot of water has flown under the bridge our peers have taken a sabbatical from the industry, leaders have changed. Large numbers of International Brands are in India. The influence of Casual American Style of management is now quite visible all over. Though we construct better hotels with superior technology we ignore the finer nuances of this delicate industry thereby choking its growth and development, in terms of quality and excellence.

Contrary to what anyone may say, our service standards have gone down without doubt. The human touch has been conveniently replaced by efficiency- whatever it means to the managements, Guest Satisfaction is secondary and only provided on complaint or demand.

Indian culture once the mainstay of courtesy and hospitality has taken a flight into oblivion. New targets of the hotels are healthy bottom line, and guest satisfaction is not really a part of agenda. Over the last few years having conducted over mystery customer operation audits, I am quite in a position to comment on the issues and areas of deterioration, but before I do, I would like to inform my readers that this is not true for South East Asia.  Service or guest experience, quality of food, authenticity of cuisine in these countries is reaching new heights we can only write or talk. Today not only India but the entire modern world is desperately trying to emulate the service standards of hotels like Regent, Shangri-la, Aman, Four Season, Mandarin Oriental, The Peninsula & Lebua Hotels and Resorts. These are also hotels who have rewritten service standards for the world to follow and yet have achieved   financial targets we can only dream.

My observation is based on  the premise that a hotel to be successful, requires good architectural design, well appointed rooms, latest software’s and good facilities, but more than anything else it requires a human touch, because Hospitality Business is all about people - weary people who come for a respite. They deserve the best and even more.

My points of observation are placed below:

1.      Periphery entrance to the hotel is one of the essential and impressionable but in the name of security we have turned this as it were an entry to barricaded army area. Instead of guest getting a feel of services and security he experiences a show of arrogance and discourtesy. Mostly the staff deployed is not properly trained to be well-mannered besides majority of them are not aware of what they are looking for when checking cars. This scene remind you of the mile long queue on main roads due to road blocks, but when you reach the block you notice the police men are standing on the side and not even looking at you.

(Our mystery customer report and our study indicate that 65% of client do not believe that Hotels take security of premises and guest very seriously and feel it’s a waste of time.)

2.    System of appointing a doorman was started to provide a grand welcome to every guest. Unfortunately in most of the hotels this service is only working for guest with luxury cars and expensive life style. My experience in visiting the same hotel was different with three different cars - while a BMW got me stiff army style salute and an extra dose of service, courtesy with a smile, a Honda city gave me the feeling as though  I was entering a corporate office and finally it was Maruti Swift which got me that special cold look reserved for a  petty customer who just hangs around in the lobby or has come for  a meet-up with the esteemed rich guest already staying of the hotel.

Most of these hotels make you realize or define your social class and economic status. This at times is made obvious by the Durbaan who makes the guest conscious. This treatment is more pronounced in North India as compared to the western or southern parts of India.  I recall the first time when I came back from abroad after 10 years, my flight was diverted to Mumbai (Bombay) and all passengers were given transit accommodation at TAJ. I clearly remember trying to carry my own baggage, as all bell boys were busy taking out the luggage from the buses before I could enter the hotel,  I was attended by lobby manager who insisted that I hand over my hand baggage to him as he welcomed me  with a very genuine  smile. Today when you visit a hotel, nine out of ten times you have to ask for someone to carry your luggage.You feel you are on your own , as if you are in some kind of an urban sarai ( Our study indicate nearly every second guest has this issue and feels this should  be improved)

3.   Our Reception Service has become much Americanized. I remember I had to wait 20 minutes in Lexington Hotel in New York just to get the keys to my room. Technology has reduced the work load of the front office to less than half of what they were doing earlier. Still I find it quite amusing that receptionists do not bother to exchange pleasantries or to even welcome you with a smile. As a guest - you have to introduce yourself, you have to request for everything. There is no display of courtesy either verbal or in the body language,  no warm smiles, in most of the cases it reminds you of visiting Udhyog Bhawan PRO office and queuing up to  get an entry pass to visit government office. What has happened to our basic values? Why have we forgotten the poor sucker standing across the counter is going to make or break the hotel? (8 corporate guests out of 10 feel that technology has not improved in the service).

4.     I was taught while growing up in the industry that Housekeeping and Room Service is the backbone of any successful hotel venture. It is surprising  that the house keeping standards of a  well managed 3,4 or 5 star hotel are nearly the same including the  facilities in the room, barring  the size of the room which may vary with number of Stars. However to me what matters is how thoughtfully the room is maintained in the hotel. There is a standard practice of cleaning the room once a day and then there is a turn down service in the evening. But if a guest checks-in early and has used the room and bathroom, before going out, the housekeeping never clean or services the room and in the evening you  return to a dirty room. In most cases the evening service depends on the availability of staff and their whims & fancies. For me perfect housekeeping would mean each time I return to my room, I must find it tidy and all touched up, Paper, books, clothes all properly stored with sparkling toilets, freshly laundered towels and linen etc. all in a spick & span condition and yes not forgetting that little flower to greet you and to make you feel good while you prepare to call it a day. But I guess in today’s scenario while picking up good things from West, we have given up good things of East for which West came to us, our service with a soul and smile.

5. In Corporate Hotels and Resorts Room Service can play a major role to generate from Food & Beverage revenue. Room Service menu is priced at least 15 to 20 % more than the restaurant or coffee shop rates so to provide additional service. This is the most disappointing service in today’s scenario, as the guest is treated as a captive who is solely dependent on them, it is an opportunity for the hotel to get creative, do what they want and how they want. I vividly recall my stay at the Clark Oberoi, Shimla back in 1976, every time I ordered room service it was a celebration. Room service staff would lay a proper table cloth and napkins   and even serve the meals, unless of course we didn’t want them to.

Many years later when I opened Regent Mumbai I tried to repeat  the same thing with modern equipment. There was this trolley which would roll in the room and then get converted into a table with laid out covers which is followed by piping hot food and the waiter used to wait on us to start the meal. I harbor a strong belief that with such large number of manpower we hire in India to run a  hotel, this service is easily possible and to say the least it needs to be experienced and it will have its own rewards . Frequent visitors to the hotels will agree with me that in most cases the room service is all lop sided. In a typical scenario, first it is difficult to order and when your order is finally noted over the phone most of the time they bring wrong items – sauces and accompaniments are matter of luck. Then finally the removal & clearance of trolley which is a matter of sheer luck or lottery, I am sure most of my readers will confirm spending nights with dirty tray or trolley. (90% of the guest staying and using room service feel then when they order from room service they are compromising with their meals. They are forced to order room service not because they like to, but because of convenience).

6. There is a major misunderstanding about upgrading of Communication Systems in the hotels that is the telephone Technology for internal communication. We keep on upgrading this technology so to improve service to the guest. But our management team thinks this is to reduce manpower. Little do they realize that telephone operator is the only vital link which the esteemed guest has with the management team of the hotel. On top of that in 80s’ and 90s’, this was a major revenue earner .

Experienced traveler will confirm how important is the Telephone Operator to the guest, but somehow we all have forgotten him  in the hope that  someday we will completely eliminate the operator  or at least we want to think  that we will. Today   with the help of new technology buttons we are making guest’s life even more miserable than comforting. Most of the operators seem to be in a tearing hurry to help the guest. The system of offering help to the guest has been totally eliminated. Consequently at times it is easier for the guest to call the hotel from his room from his mobile  than to go through the operator , because the brief given to the operator is to give priority to incoming calls from outside, than to calls from rooms. That is not all unfortunately, the worst is, if you are calling from outside and want  some information or want to get in touch with somebody in the hotel, you will have to be very lucky if you are connected in the first attempt. I have kept the record of my ordeal with hotels last year in this context - I called about 23 hotels to get some information or booking e.g. it was either about the rooms, or about a guest staying or want to be connected to  banquet/sales department or most of the times just trying to get connected to the GM of the  hotel. In the process I may have spent around Rs. 4.75 per call per hotel. (Most of the guest and their secretaries felt that it was easier to get across to hotel’s contact person on his mobile than to call him through EPABX system of the hotel).

7. As an Assistant F & B Manager of a small ITDC Qutab Hotel in Delhi, where the most popular affair used to be the Sunday Buffet,  for 3 years I worked with this hotel, and we had nearly 65% repeat clientele for this Sunday Buffet. It was not that we served amazing food or we created an exceptional ambiance , it was, just that basic and pure, guest service. We made an effort to treat every guest in a very special way. His likes and dislikes were noted and we worked on that. I remember my family restaurant in Beirut, where I had the opportunity to work with a Senior Captain, his name was John De’Souza. He was the best guest relation manager, I ever worked with. I remember an instance - It was lunch time and our restaurant was empty it was nearly 2 PM in the afternoon. A Sheikh from Kuwait walked in the restaurant and when he looked at the empty restaurant, he asked John in his broken Hindi “ Kaya huwa Koi nahi hai”( What happened-no other guest) and john answered “Hajur aap agaye to Hamme kisi ki jarurat nahi hai” (Sir, you have come-now we don’t need anyone). The Sheikh was so emotionally charged that he hugged him and gave him a tip that was more than the cost of the meal.

I want to put a question to my readers i.e.  have they ever gone through  a similar experience in -  let us say last 10 years with a  big brand hotels like The Taj , Hyatt, Sheraton, Oberoi or ITC, today we  want the guest to pay ridiculous amounts for nothing. We have little  patience to serve him, the food according to his wishes and desires, ironically enough, even after so many years and with so many new concepts floating in the market the best restaurants still are  Bukhara and Moti Mahal in Greater Kailash, New Delhi. In the effort to modernize ourselves we forget who is paying for our existence. I have visited many restaurants, cafés and lounges in Hotels, if I ask for something different than the menu, as a rule they refuse to change, and this goes for all the hotels, however there may be exceptions - and exceptions  prove the rule).”The rule is not to change”

Most of coffee shops in hotels insists on a buffet - lunch or dinner because of their convenience, and if by chance you are stubborn and  have  your way, then your meal is  delayed to prove their point. This is also the reason why more and more free standing restaurants are doing well while the F&B revenue keeps dropping in hotels.

( The people we spoke to, majority of them felt that visiting hotel for F&B is not a good option when it comes to  value for money.)

Today we are on the threshold of a major growth in hotel industry and if our service standards do not match the proverbial Indian Hospitality and continue to be the way they are, there is very little hope. We have everything what our South East Asian neighbors’ have, but the difference is, that in India, hospitality is a  social phenomenon, a concept that is based on the principle Atithi Devo Bhava, meaning "The guest is God." From this stems the Indian approach of graciousness towards guests at home and in all social situations. It is we who are perceived by the world as a seat of Culture, warmth and Divine Heritage. It is important for us to win over the world by our faith and excellence of hospitality and become example to the world. Today technology has given us ability to achieve excellence in service standards and create a reputation beyond what is best in the world. Complacency is not an option when it comes to tourism development and growth. It would be a good idea to setup a research centre so to improve the service standards of existing hotels and also create and achieve new heights in Hospitality business opportunity.

Epilogue

“I may be branded as a bitter critique for my ballistic reactions by some in the hospitality industry - my advice to them, let’s not rock our own boat”./ Ends

Written by Anil Chak & Virat Varma

MyFootprints on Stone of Time…!

Sometime, in late sixties I completed my Higher Secondary education, keeping in view my marks my dad decided that I needed to go abroad, because the chances of getting admission in any of the Engineering colleges in India were rather remote. And any way deep down, who wanted to go to the engineering college. I was sure there was more to life than that. So destiny decided and I sang ‘Beirut here I come’. At that time Beirut was a happening place and to study there I felt like God’s chosen one.

Who knew then, that these were the first strides out that were taking me towards my “Karma Bhoomi”. The battle for survival had begun. Along this endless march in life, I met so many people that many of them I do not even remember now, but there are some unforgettable one who helped me pave the path of my life. I met a few who recast my attitude, touched the very core of moral fiber. Some infused my willpower with an extra drop of zeal to fight. I dedicate this blog to record the sweet memories of those great human beings with whom I was fortunate enough to work or was thrown together with by dear destiny.

Vinod Gulati: My childhood friend who I always thought was smarter and better looking than me. After school he decided to join the Army. He used to come home two times every year and that was like celebrating Dewali. Every day he would take me to CP for a treat to a new Restaurant - Gaylord, Labohim, Laguna, United Coffee house and other popular restaurants of the happening cannaught place area. This was my first brush with the world of Luxury, good food and bravery. While spending time together he would narrate his experiences in the Army OH! Army seemed like a dream world. I didn’t mind hard work ,fighting the enemy, any boy’s dream, and a passion with me and to top it all holidays like those thrown in Army seemed the way to go but my parents did not think so and that’s that. Well, Vinod was/is my hero. I wanted to be like him. Time passed, and Vinod remained my friend, philosopher and Guide .Although we don’t meet often enough now but he will remain my best friend forever.( Like my daughter would say my BFF)

· I did write about Bhisham Varma in my earlier blog. What can you say about a man who falls in the same category as Super Man, Spiderman and Phantom all rolled in one. He was the best swimmer for more than a decade in Delhi, his pole vault record at Delhi University is yet to be broken, phenomenal driver who could identify the name and model of a car blind folded simply by listening to the sound of the engine. He was a commercial Pilot as well and so much more. As for me, he was my Chachaji, a father figure; I looked up to him for directions in life. He gave me confidence, believed in me, guided me— whatever I am today is thanks to him. He was a visionary, a genius with an ability to turn his weakness into his strength. He was a charmer par excellence. He would have his biggest critics eating out of his hand within minutes, he was never scared to take on people /companies ten times bigger and come out a winner-always. He was like GOD by my side; even today after every achievement I feel his presence around me, I miss him because I know he would be really proud of me. He will always be my guiding spirit.

· Leila Varma: A beautiful, charming and highly disciplined lady is my Chachi (Aunt)-married to my Uncle Bhisham.A Palestinian Christen (Greek orthodox) Leila was every thing opposite (in good ways) to my Uncle. Highly educated in USA, very shy-she was forced to be my mother, sister and guide at a crucial time in my life. She never ever interfered in our work. I remember we had a manager called Saud who was working with my Uncle for many many years-once when Uncle was in London on business I caught him manipulating the restaurant bills and asked him to leave the restaurant and only come back after Uncles return. He got furious and rang up my Aunt complaining about me-mind you I was only an 18 years old green horn but Leila backed me up and asked him to come back after uncle’s return. She taught me the most important lesson of my life---while working in Beirut I was ordered by uncle to bribe Airline staff, government official and not only that I was forced to do things which I felt were unethical .Having no friend at that time, I started writing a dairy to give vent to my frustrations. Without realizing that Uncle was monitoring my each move. Being a masochist- on one page I toyed with the idea of death. By mistake the dairy fell in uncle’s hand and all hell broke loose. While my uncle was giving me a lecture on changing with the world (he was right in his own way), Leila interrupted and told me not to give in, but to fight for what is right, she said, “Virat you don’t have to change with the world but to work on changing the world to what is right”. Till date I have worked on what she taught and that has made me the man I am and mind you that most of the times makes me a misfit in this world. But I am proud of who I am.

· Judith Brewer: A ravishing blond from New York and a graceful walk from Paris- she was a real friend in that ‘friendless’ early world of mine. She was actually going out with a diplomat friend of mine and when I tried to date her she said, I was like a little brother. We remained friends till I returned back to India and thereafter; I could never locate her in this world. She was my teacher and a friend who taught me to write letters, but most important thing she taught me to be independent and learn to be my own boss. She gifted me dignity of living.

· Toni Campbell: A great friend, the man to whom I owe my sensitivity and gift of writing, especially to his younger brother Colin Campbell. Colin was young rebel with Jesus Christ beard and hair style. Somehow I was going through my own rebellious phase and we hit off well. He used to write very fine poetry. He helped me in converting my heart aches into verse. He first taught me to write poetry and then became fan of what I wrote. He was always a cool guy who promised to come to my wedding, dressed in a suit but no tie and shoes. We wrote our first poetry book together it was called “INTODUCTION”. Today he lives in Spain and takes care of his mother.

· Psyche Nigam: My boss in ITDC and A.K. Dave Assosiates. A vivacious, pretty and Hot-yes really hot lady. We were all in love with her- all her Management Trainees, her colleges and even her bosses except, obviously her husband (God bless his soul). She was real deliverer. Although she was just one of the many Dy Directors, but the fact was that she ran ITDC. She was a go-getter and I was her assistant. She taught me to be a hotelier. She was multi tasking from training to planning to running of Hotels. Actually if you think about it, her exit was the first nail in ITDC hotels coffin. I was her “Golden Boy” and the lady was really fond of me and she was very unhappy when I left her company for another Job. She is a great Lady maybe the best .I will always love and respect her and will be ever so grateful for her guidance and training.

· Kissan Mehta & Vjay Mallya: Together they have played a very important role in my life. Kishan Mehta President UB group gave me a break to head his Fast Food Division and start a pizza chain under the name Pizza King in 1983-84.I was working for Milk Food at that time and when I came to know that McDowell & Company is planning to come into fast food industry. I felt cheated as I wanted to be the first one. I dared and called Mr. Mehta’s office and as luck would have it he came on the line and called me for an interview and rest is history. He is the man who brought Coca-Cola to India. A great manager. He gave me total freedom to run the chain the way I wanted. We became so successful that we were written about in Times and Newsweek & India Today wanted to do a cover story on us. It was because of Pizza King Mr. Mallya is even today called The King. Mr. Mehta’s guidance helped me to open the first pizza chain in our country successfully and that gave me tremendous confidence and my abilities as a manager were put to test, successfully.

· Vijay Mallya on other hand was a Prince Charming, a ‘Dare Devil’ and ‘Great Human Being’ all rolled into one. He was proud of us and on many occasions he said that to me. He believed in us to an extent that he lived, breathed and ate pizza from Pizza King like it would go out of fashion. My interaction with him was limited, but at every stage we interacted he was always surrounded by self centered coterie of managers who misused their position for their personal benefits. And it is my belief that is the reason Vijay Mallya a man of vision, who came out with outstanding concepts like soft drinks (Thrill, Rush and Sprite), the first highly successful fast food chain Pizza King and an amazing King Fisher Airline could not overcome the difficulties. Even today I am emotionally attached to Vijay Mallya and his vision and it hurts to see yet another of his passion – the Kingfisher Airline slowly going to dogs. I hope for the first time he himself buckles up to fight it out. What I learnt from him was he gave his involvement with his new projects was total but along the way he got over them and started looking for new ideas like a child would do with an old toy when he found a new one .If he is still determined to beat his father’s achievements. Then he must realize that it is not just starting a new project, but what matters is how each one of those gets converted into a successful venture,by following them through thick and thin. May be I say this because all the people attached to Pizza King are all doing well individually today but all still miss Pizza King a Lot.

· Richard Rekhy: When I was working as GM at Centaur Hotels I met this very humble and polite auditor representing renowned firm RSM . Richard was their managing partner, Northern India. Richard and I became very good friends. Even after I left Centaur and joined JP hotels he was my friend and financial advisor. Although we did not do any business together but we interacted on daily basis. Richard was the one who forced me into Hospitality Consultancy. His boss Mr. Ratan S. Mama had a great regard and believe in Richard and in 1996 we floated a company under RSM- Ratan Mama Consultants in collaboration with Pannell Kerr Forster first professional Hospitality Consulting firm in India. Being a Restaurateur and Hotelier my ability for deskwork was limited. I was hard core operation man. It was Richard with his uncanny support that not only in guiding but even in writing reports with us that established us as the first Professionally Managed Consulting Firm. Within six months of starting of the company Mr. R. Mama passed away and his son who was supposed to be my under study by default became my boss. Following next two and a half years were tough, we did about 57 small, large and medium projects/assignments and all those were successful because Richard’s supported us. To be précis he had a major role to play in turning me from hardcore Hotel Operation Professional to a Professional Corporate Manager. My ability to look at projects operationally, financially, administratively is his training. Today Richard is heading KPMG as their COO. God bless him.

· K K Sharma: I became friends with this maverick lawyer from high court when I was working with JP’s. He has a great ability and fire to win legal battles which also gives confidence to his client. After leaving Regent Mumbai when I open my own restaurant he was there to help me. The loosing restaurant saw all my fare wheather friends vanished into the blue, except for KK. He not only supported me but helped me in so many ways to stay afloat during the times of monetary stress. His unflinching belief in me - when everybody, including some of my family, lost confidence in me he was there for me and that’s something I will never forget. He taught me the real meaning of a good friend. You are not rich if you have too many of them just a few true ones makes life worth living.

Written by Anil Chak & Virat Varma

Le Bua Hotels & Resorts, Bangkok.

DISCOVERY OF NEW GALAXY

Back in 1999 it was indeed a matter of pride to become the first Indian ever to be approved by REGENT HOTELS for the post of General Manager of their Hotel which they were planning to open in Mumbai - It is besides the point at this juncture that I was then working for the promoters of the Regent property as Chief Operating Officer. The Regent Mumbai when launched was considered as a brand which re-wrote the service standards for the country, and was rated as the best new Hotel by the Conde’ Nest.

All what I say is because I am quite in a position to make such a statement freely and unhesitatingly as I am not only aware of the world service standards but also of various aspects that are involved in developing these services.

My Story about ‘Lebua’ begins with a phone call from Samir Puri – a very dear friend and owner of Lotus Pond and many other restaurants in Delhi - requesting me to meet a friend of his named Deepak Ohri who represents a fairly large and reputed Hotel chain from Bangkok, who were keen to come to India, and whether I could be of any help in the process. This meeting with Deepak Ohri was arranged in Mumbai at Grand Hyatt. As for me, it was more of a courtesy call, simply because Samir wanted me to be present in the meeting for the reasons of my understanding of the hotel industry at macro level and awareness of the dominance of Indian Hospitality Industry by the American Hotel Chains and that the brand world was already crowded - Under such circumstances how viable it would be for a lesser known brand from South East Asia to venture into the Indian market, was the issue.

With his disarming smile and positivity Deepak appeared to be the perfect picture of a man on a mission. He tried to sell me the product, but what excited me more, was his exalted vision, attitude and determination. He was sure that what he had created was the best [He reminded me of my times when I was setting up the Pizza Chain with Dr.Vijay Mallya] and was very clear of his journey and direction. Our fifteen minute meeting lasted for more than two hours as I really wanted to know more and more about this young man and his discovery. To be frank, I was pretty much impressed by him rather than the Brand and I wanted to be a part of what he was doing and also of his future plans.

Convinced with Deepak’s presentation, I made up my mind to get him a Hotel and as the luck would have it a 400 room property in Dwarka Sec 10 was looking for a brand. As I had a very convincing case, we decided to visit Bangkok to assess the Brand and rest is history.

Lebua Hotel Bangkok- A 370 Plus Suite Hotel Has Redefined

Luxury, Glamour and Service.

We drove from Airport with flashing Police escort all the way to the Hotel. On arrival Special Ladies escorted each and every guest to their particular room, explaining everything about the Hotel and Bangkok.

The wondrous ‘Lebua’ started hitting us very slowly. The late night flight landed early morning Gaurav (Director in Dwarka Hotel) and I decided to take a little tour of the Hotel and have Break Fast. The Hotel was very busy and bubbling with activity, as expected breakfast room with nearly 175 cover was full. Two smart Hostesses were attending to all the guests, trying to accommodate them. One of them - very politely - asked me my room number more as a conversation and with a fleeting look gave some instruction to her associate. Next we saw Restaurant Manager a Lady executive was with us in a jiffy she took us to a table about 15yards from where we were standing. I could see the guest leaving the table, but before we could reach, the table was cleaned and properly laid out - a lesson in efficiency. The BF buffet was unbelievably the most elaborate spread I had ever seen – and we would not do justice to even one third of it.

Being a hotelier I have spent most of my life and money visiting and eating out in various hotels across the world but my experience with ‘Lebua’ was really an eye opener. I thought Regent Hotels were the ultimate, but for me ‘Lebua’ redefined the service standards. May be it was wonders of Southeast Asia or was it Deepak’s vision.

Over a period of time I made several trips to Bangkok and stayed at ‘Lebua’. Each of my stay was a unique experience, for one I always saw the staffers fully prepared to greet the guests. While dining we never had to call a waiter for pouring water or clearance. They were there but not noticeable. I found them monitoring movement / development of the guest on the table from behind the pillars in a very subtle way.

I never saw the house keeping staff tidy up the room, yet every time I returned, the room was fully serviced. Every staffer, every executive was completely dedicated towards a singular goal to serve the guest.

As for the food, four Michelin star chefs were working in unison to control the quality and presentation of food. I never saw food better presented, their Breakfast Buffet was one of the largest I saw. It reminded me of Sunday brunch at a well-known US hotel resorts.

Usually, I avoid making predictions but when I do, God is kind, and they do come true and very confidently I can predict that Deepak Ohri and Lebua hotel is next best thing that will happen to the world of hospitality and soon enough it will make its presence felt and will become a milestone in terms of service, food and hospitality. ENDS

Written by Anil Chak & Virat Varma

MY UNCLE’S MUSTACHE &

CHICKEN TIKKA MASALA (CTM)

Now the question is what my uncle’s mustache has got to do with the famous Chicken Tikka Masala!

For some years in the recent past I have been hearing about this great ‘English’ invention of an original Indian dish called CTM, which has now come to be known as "Britain's True National Dish".

One can read about a hundred odd yarns on how CTM is a true Bangladeshi recipe, while others talk of its original limey (English) version and so on. Apparently someone is running a bull shitting industry, fully loaded with facts about CTM. The truth is that the CTM was and is one hundred percent a dish of Indian origin.

Perhaps little story from my past which (involves my dear uncle Mr.Bhisham Varma & and his sexy moustache) will help all to discover the truth behind CTM.

The story begins in early 60’s in Beirut, the capital city of Lebanon where my mentor, my guru, my uncle Bhisham Varma lived…

He was wild restless & rebellious from the very beginning. At the age of 21 he had three Harley Davidson of his own. He had a knack for repairing cars; motor cycles and all kinds of motors. It is because of these qualities my father wanted to send him to Rolls Royce for training on completion of his graduation. He was studying in Hindu College-Delhi. Due to his rebellious nature (during the final practical examination) he tried to reason with his professor defending his own method of solving the practical which was different than what his professor had taught, after lots of reasoning and altercation, when the professor didn’t agree with him then my uncle told the professor to his face, “Sir, If you have not seen London, it doesn’t mean London doesn’t exist”. The livid professor ‘failed’ him. After this incident he lost faith in the academic system and refused to study any further.

…He owned and operated a chain of Indian Restaurants in the Middle East and London. He was a versatile genius. His imposing personality was aptly complimented by a moustache which he sported. He was a national swimming champion, and commercial pilot turned Restaurateur. He was a visionary and an entrepreneur of his times, who worked hard to become one of the richest and most influential Indian Businessman in Lebanon.

As I finished my schooling he called me to Beirut and there I lived with him for over 8 years. Under his wings & fold, I learnt a lot and more to became a thorough hospitality professional.

Beside the restaurant chain, we also ran a very large flight kitchen operations that catered to Air India, PAN AM and BOAC (now British Airways). In fact, outside India we were the largest Indian food caterers in the world. Our Indian restaurants were the single most popular and renowned chain in Europe and the Middle East, with branches in Cyprus and London. It was called ‘Sirena- Indian Restaurants and Flight Kitchens’.

It must be mentioned at this moment that PANAM & BOAC use to load our Indian Food for their global network, including India. Mr.Bhisham Varma’s association with Air India was well knit and strong. We had the likes of JRD Tata and Bobby Kooka, Air-India's then Commercial Director visiting our restaurant whenever they were in Lebanon.

Mr.Bhisham Varma started his restaurant business with six partners to become one of the most distinguished restaurateurs in the world in sixties and seventies. He also owned a huge restaurant and recreation center called COCODI, situated next to Beirut International Airport (now known as Rafic Hariri International Airport).

I remained under the tutelage of my uncle for eight years,during which I observed, prepared, entertained and once in a while even tried Indian cuisine -Life was good, I was happy.

It was in Beirut, for the first time, that I noticed the name TCTM on the food menu. TCTM is a spicy curry in which boneless tender pieces of Tandoori Chicken are cooked. Since we had limited number of Chefs of Indian origin, every evening we kept a decent stock of half baked Tandoori chicken to meet the rush (a common practice even today) next day, we used the remaining tandoori chicken to make CTM. The bones were removed, the meat was then diced and cooked with onion, tomatoes, green chilies, garlic & ginger paste and finished with yogurt marinade, which is how the CTM gets its rich red color and unique taste. This ‘creation of compulsion’ was called TCTM.

The CTM was actually a dish born out of necessity and ingenuity of Indian Chefs who ventured across the seas in search of promising pastures. Perhaps they had the recipe in their minds not knowing that it is destined to become the most served and sought after dish globally. The good thing is that each claim is as interesting as the other. But we must pause and think and ask ourselves- Just-what can go wrong when these simple ingredients (onion, tomatoes, green chilies’, garlic - ginger paste and yogurt) are married, especially in the Indian cuisine & context.

In 1969 when I went to Hounslow-London to look after ‘Sirena’, TCTM was added to the menu. It was an instant success and soon it became a hot seller on the menu. The standard order with TCTM was stuffed parantha and half Chicken Tandoori.

TCTM was available at Sirena only till 1994.After which Sirena in London closed the same year, and I have enough feed back to believe that TCTM was in demand for a long time and that every restaurant made efforts to develop their own version of TCTM. Some Bangladeshi restaurants even went to the extent adding tomato soup to the replicate the taste. Sirena is still open and operating in Beirut under the name 'India'.

The purpose of dedicating this blog to CTM and my uncle is to clear the haze (In all humility) that surrounds this humble Indian staple dish and its genesis, also put to rest all the feverish claims and controversies that revolve around CTM.

My Chef Pratap Singh, first for many years in Beirut and subsequently in London who prepared thousands of portions of CTM during 1969-73 will happily vouch for my words. Our efforts and hard work made Sirena one of the best Indian restaurants in London where the most popular dish use to be TCTM. Yet another hot favorite creation was, Seekh Kabab Rolls - Crispy Fried Paratha with Seekh Kabab, chopped onions, bell peppers, and tomatoes , served with mint chutney.

Those days we had a tie up with Air India, they provide us with menu covers for our restaurant. For reasons of posterity I still have one copy of the menu cards. A scan of which is placed below for all to see and draw their own conclusion about TCTM that was made by Sirena chefs and served with pride in London during 1969 to 1994.

Ah! yes the Brits can now officially call it the "Britain's True National Dish", I give them my permission to do so.– Enjoy!

ENDS

Written by Anil Chak & Virat Varma

Dream Gone Sour

The McDonalds India Story

My exposure to McDonald restaurants started in 1977-78 when I visited England on a holiday. My cousin Sunjay Vadhera - a graduate from Hamburger University in Illinois, Chicago- took me to MacDonald in Twickenham - where he used to work - for a burger meal.

I loved every thing about the place the burgers, the fries and the shakes. In those days Americans use to say that “most nutritious food is Hamburger, shake and fries. Whatever, wherever McDonald did it become a trailblazer. They selected best portions of beef, lamb and chicken, used the best of ingredients to produce the most amazing food at amazingly low price. Like many millions I loved everything about McDonalds, my hero was Ray Kroc, the Chairman, millionaire entrepreneur and founder of the internationally successful fast food chain McDonald.

Like all hospitality professionals I was enamored and obsessed by Mr.Kroc. His achievements somehow had, a sort of humbling effect on me. I read his biography five times over and later the McDonald’s story ‘BEHIND THE ARCHES’ by John F.Love, a couple of times. Belonging to restaurant industry my singular purpose in life, at that point in time was to bring McDonald to India. In 1984 when I opened the chain of pizza restaurants for Vijay Mallya called McDowell’s PIZZA KING, it was then I wrote many letters to McDonald’s requesting them to visit India. In response, their President even visited and met with my Boss Kisan Mehta at The Oberoi, Delhi, but apparently they were not ready for India – or at least till then.

I moved back to my hotel industry. Many years later McDonald’s finally arrived with its first outlet at Vasant Vihar in New Delhi. Today there are over 150 outlets. Sadly enough the McDonald’s India story is not the same as Europe or the US. It seems that the quality standards laid down by McDonalds for the rest of the world are different for India.

However I will not like to highlight any other strength or weaknesses, baring just one very serious issue as a professional.

“Because a McDonalds burger which has a life of just 10 minutes (after which it is destroyed) can it be sold & delivered even after 30 minutes to the Indian customer…!”

The abovementioned observation is based on the fact that life of a burger is 10 minutes, as per the McDonald’s own researched food parameters, and is confirmed by McDonald on their official website dedicated to all queries; clarifications and information dissemination (Follow the link below). Anyone can post a question or two about product or any other aspect of McDonald. It will be promptly answered.

http://www.makeupyourownmind.co.uk/question-search?key=how%20safe%20is%20the%20food;nh=1#question1

The following question has been reproduced from their website for your immediate reference:

Q. Why is it acceptable for burgers to be kept for up to 10 minutes before being disposed of? If this is considered to be a safe way of handling cooked meat products, are you saying that such products are kept at a constantly high temperature (presumably above 70-75 degrees C) to ensure that they do not deteriorate, and are therefore 'piping hot' when served and eaten immediately? Also, can you please reassure me that your products are adequately cooked by saying how long they are cooked for?

A: Food safety is an area that is rigorously assessed by independent auditors and these standards are outlined in the Food Safety Regulations. These stipulate that it is acceptable for food to be held for up to two hours at room temperature prior to being sold. McDonald's procedures are much more stringent for all its food items: for example, the company insists that burgers are kept at a temperature between 63 and 66 degrees centigrade for a maximum 10 minutes after which it is discarded. The cooking equipment and technology is bespoke to McDonald's and takes into account the company's requirements. Every menu item again has a tightly defined cooking procedure that should ensure that each order is delivered in perfect condition to the customer. For example, the regular Hamburger is cooked for less than a minute from frozen on the specially designed double sided hot plate and reaches a cooking temperature of 70 degrees centigrade. You can rest assured that the whole kitchen process and equipment along side the training programmers’ for staff are all focused on ensuring the best quality food is delivered in the shortest service time possible. (December 2006)

Abroad the same McDonald’s logic of freshness applies when it comes to home delivery of a burger. And I quote from the website:

Follow the link below:

http://www.makeupyourownmind.co.uk/question-search?key=delivery;nh=2

“Q. Why don’t you start a delivery system?

A. Many factors have to be taken into account to provide a delivery service, for example the length of time taken for the staff to reach their destinations to ensure hot fresh food in the quickest time. As a company, McDonald's feels that it could not adequately meet these goals at the present time.”

If all the above is true, the obvious question that raids my mind is that which new technology and ingredients are being used in India to extend life of the burger- For logically it just cannot be same, as it is for the rest of the world. It is even more difficult to appreciate the fact that in India, McDonalds are doing home delivery as well - though from select outlets and interestingly enough the delivery time is 30 minutes- A phenomenon that is quite reasonably intriguing and is important to understand, if nothing, at least we will all be a little wiser, hereinafter.

It is important to ‘know and demand’ quality, otherwise we will never be able to enjoy a true hamburger and we will keep gobbling down the modified Indian version of the McDonald burger at our own risk & consequence. Best Wishes dear friends.

Written by: Anil Chak & Virat Varma

When Nature Calls

I can still recall those vivid childhood outings with my mother. Every time, just before stepping out of the house for a drive, or a trip to market, our mother would absolutely insist that all of us (we are five siblings) must visit the toilet as we may not find one in town, besides it was bad manners to use a wall or a corner. Interestingly enough the situation remains – well almost – the same even today, as we still do not know where to look ‘when nature calls’. Once we are out of our homes, ‘The Toilet’ factor still haunts us...!

Recent times have witnessed burgeoning population of malls, shopping centers, restaurants, cafés like never before. To match this growth we have a cheering population to enjoy these high profile world class eateries. Behind all the glitz and glamour it is unbelievable how we have missed out on upgrading the basic facility for urban population i.e. a nice, clean, functional ‘Public Toilets’ OR ‘Rest Rooms’ as they call it in the west.

I find this platform most suitable to address this fundamental need of all humans and the law and the norms that govern the Industry of restaurants, cafés, bars, lounge and eateries. A study conducted by Global Hospitality Consultants has revealed some startling facts on the subject. In Delhi, the law clearly states;

“Every eating house requires proper toilet facilities for their guest and if an outlet has over 100 covers, it will also need to have not only proper locker rooms, but also separate staff toilets for both gents and ladies”

Ironically enough the situation in reality is very different. Here are some disturbing revelations of the GHC study:

· Our study found that the most up-market restaurants are the ones located in the shopping centers and malls. These restaurants per force follow legal requirement - not out of respect for the law & rules made by the government, but the class of the visiting guests in their outlets compel them to create this basic requirement.

· Most of the cafés located in Delhi’s high profile shopping centers have either small cubicle as a common toilet or just have nothing at all. Furthermore the GHC study reveals that all the classy cafés & restaurants in plush areas of C.P., South Extension I & II, Greater Kailash Part I & II and similar elite areas have cubical as a common toilet for guest and staff . Interestingly enough one popular brand name Cafe operating from posh ‘Friends Colony’ doesn’t even have toilet facilities on the premises – GHC Advisory –Spot a corner or a wall before entering these PJs (Plush Joints) - pun intended. OR just read this limerick from GHC – When nature calls, in restaurant or mall. Leave your muffin or focaccia. Look for the corner or a wall. If this is the state of affairs in south Delhi, the condition in the west & north Delhi can be left to our imagination or is anyone’s guess. ‘I am sure the script writer of the film 3 IDIOTS got his inspiration from; either by regularly using the corner or a wall in desperation or after keen observation of this every day roadside spectacle.

· Major International fast food chains boast of highest standards world wide, but when they confront the Indian system & people, they start wilting- why? is anybody’s guess. Forced, pushed and tossed around, they start ‘loving it’. As the time passes by they mould themselves to become as incorrigible as the system here.

The World Standards

Any premier food chain serving 1000 /2000 covers / meals every day, any where in the world will always have minimum of 3 to 4 urinals, 2 toilets (including one for handicapped guests and a similar configuration goes for ladies. In contrast what we have in India is two small cubicles one for ladies and other one for gents. To add to the anguish, this cubicle also has a WC - and if they were to have there way, they would squeeze in a BIDET (For the record its pronounced Be-day) too and start boasting of a plush ‘Rest Room’ which is a cubicle.

Flouting these norms anywhere in the world would mean ‘closer’ any where in the world. But in our India its, Jai Ho! Balle - Balle. A Liaison consultant flippantly quipped, ‘ that is what they pay additional money for’.

· All Indian sweet houses with Indian fast food who boast of phenomenal

sales have pathetic wash rooms. Just as a token, in the name of rule, there is a small poorly maintained toilet for a 150/200 cover restaurant with flush system not working or no running water. Little attention is paid to hygiene standards. We are referring to some of the well known cash rich Indian fast food chains and sweet shops. Will someone tell these filthy rich owners that how filthy is their RESTROOM or are we used to filth & grime with no nostrils.

· The sad part is that most of these toilets are so badly maintained that they only add to the deteriorating of standard hygiene. There is no soap in the dispenser, no water in the faucet, no toilet paper in the ring or napkin in its place and a hand drier that doesn’t work. What a shame! What Mockery! What anguish! What stuff are we made of?

Are we a country of self opinionated bull shitters? Let’s ask ourselves this very moment.

Due to sub human hygiene conditions of toilets in Delhi, it is not surprising that a large number of people suffer from gastric disorders. I guess for this reason some one coined the appropriate phrase ‘DELHI BELLY’.

GHC has taken upon itself the task of sensitizing both intelligentsia and the government about the critical need to address this problem at the same time GHC accepts responsibility to offer solutions as well.

GHC Recommendations:

We strongly urge the government and other social bodies to:

1. Promulgate a law for:

a) For all new restaurants that are coming up, and

b) a separate law for existing eateries, with a separate set of rules keeping in view the conditions and space constraints.

c) To set up an advisory committee consisting of hospitality professionals, Doctors and qualified health officers to scrutinize and clear all new projects and proposals by majority secret vote. Thereafter it can be forwarded (with the Committee Recommendations) to appropriate government authority for final stamp of approval.

2. The government must authorize the committee to carry out inspections of all eating houses based on the draft of guidelines.

3. Subject to approval, all restaurants licenses must be canceled after giving three months to rectify the situation.

4. For non-compliance after 3 months the license must be canceled for minimum three years.

This is a simple and workable solution, we are confident that our Government will find substance in these overtures. As for GHC it will always remain willing to make its humble contribution to lift the standards of the Hospitality Industry in India.

Written by Anil Chak & Virat Varma